Christkindlmarket Chicago – One Week Left!

If you:

-Need help getting into the holiday spirit

-Still need to get some Christmas gifts

-Are hungry for some meat

-Are thirsty for some Glühwein

Then head down to Daley Plaza for the Christkindlmarket.

The first thing I do when I am there is head to the Glühwein line. Depending on the time and day it can be long so by the time you order you might be a bit cold and ready for a warm drink.

The mulled wine comes in a souvenir boot you can get refilled and take home.

Next is the food line. I’ve been to the market more than a few times so have had the pretzel (comes in about 6 types), potato pancakes, brat, Thueringer, snowballs and curry sausage. All was good and pretty authentic, although any German will tell you, not so cheap. But hey, you are here for the novelty and entertainment.

If you have a sweet tooth there is a whole shop where you can buy kettle corn, cotton candy, gingerbread, roasted nuts and much more. Now that you have stocked up on all of the essentials you can peruse the many shops for your holiday gifts.

If you get cold there is a warming tent with tables to take a break. They have a live band at night and the sing-a-long participation is directly correlated to the Glühwein intake.

Great place to bring kids during the day with educational activities offered, check the website for event calendar. It does crowded at night but if you don’t mind a crowd it is a fun party. Usually Mondays are the least crowded. The market ends on December 24th so just under a week left to go. Prost!

Some history from the Christkindlmarket Chicago website:

Inspired by the Christkindlesmarkt in Nuremberg, Germany, which began in 1545, the Christkindlmarket Chicago brings a cherished German and European tradition with international flair and local charm to Chicago. Chicago’s largest open-air Christmas festival was first held on Pioneer Court in 1996. By special invitation of Mayor Richard M. Daley, Christkindlmarket Chicago moved to Daley Plaza in 1997 and has become a stable event on the plaza ever since.

The Biggest Village in Germany – Stuttgart

The beauty of the autobahn is the drive to Stuttgart from Munich can be as quick as you want, pending traffic of course. Coming into Stuttgart I was struck by what a beautiful valley I was driving into. It looked like there were vineyards in the hills as well. Wikipedia describes it perfectly, “The city centre lies in a lush valley, nestling between vineyards and thick woodland close by…Thus, the city is often described as lying “zwischen Wald und Reben”, between forest and vines.”

You really can see vineyards from downtown. After learning that Stuttgart is in the Württemberg wine growing area dating back to around 1100 I figured some great wine was in my future.

A Christmas Market (Christkindlmarket) off the Schlossplatz provided my first taste of Glühwein in Germany. A warm mulled red wine that is served at Christmas Markets. It keeps you toasty while you shop and hang out at the market. Coupled with a Germknödel (steamed dessert dumpling covered in vanilla cream sauce) and you have yourself a nice little treat.

Next order of business was to find some authentic Swabian food for dinner. Swabian food is known for its sauces on everything and on the rich side, which is fine by me…when in Swabia I will do as the Swabain. Enter zum Ackerbürger, a rustic farmhouse even the taxi driver couldn’t find. I was lucky to be with some Germans that asked about 5 people on the street for directions before finally finding someone who thought they knew where it was. I have a theory that the locals don’t want any tourist finding out about this place. There was a little too much “keine ahnung” (I have no idea) where zum Ackerbürger was from people standing less than a block away. Don’t blame them.

Established in 1551 it is the second-oldest house in Stuttgart. Their website indicates the back of the tavern is preserved in its original city walls. Stepping inside you immediately feel like you are in a cozy cottage. It is decorated with antiques and trinkets to make you feel like how it could have been at one time.

After taking in what a find this place was it was on to the food. Appetizers of Carpaccio vom Rinderfilet an Ackersalat in Kürbiskernvinaigrette (Beef Carpaccio) and Cremesuppe von champignons (Cream of Mushroom soup). Hands down the best mushroom soup I have ever had. The mushrooms were so fresh I think they actually were picked a few minutes before they were cooked. The sauce was rich and creamy but not so overpowering that you felt you couldn’t move on to a main course. I do suggest splitting it. The Carpaccio was of very high quality and the pumpkin seed vinaigrette was a refreshing change.

The Hauptspeisen (main course) was the Ackerbürgerpfannle – Rinder un Schweinemedaillon vom Grill mit Steinchampignons in Cognacsahne, dazu handegeschabte Spatzle. Wait, what? That was my reaction anyway…basically beef medallions and pork grilled with porcini mushrooms in a cognac cream, served with Spätzle. To say it was good is an understatement. The cognac sauce was rich and the meat was literally mouth-watering. You must get this dish.

It’s rare that I don’t order dessert but I was satisfied enough with the meal that dessert actually didn’t seem necessary.  Besides, we had some Cannstatter Zuckerle Trollinger wine to finish which had some body but was on the lighter side and tasted of fresh fruits. Perfect way to end the heavy meal.

Dispatch from Munich – Day 2

Image via travel1000places.com

Unfortunately the jet lag won and I found myself wide-awake and hungry early in the morning. I wound up buying way too many unhealthy snacks at a gas station and re-learning how to drive a stick shift in the streets of Munich at 3am. Needless to say I needed some serious caffeine to fuel my next, well same day.

Headed to Cafe Glockenspiel in Marienplatz for a late breakfast. The coffee was strong and the sunny day made a table on the rooftop terrace especially cozy. There was also a view of Marienplatz (image above is Marienplatz seen from Cafe Glockenspiel). Pretty much a perfect breakfast place despite the fact my “huevos rancheros” were served with Fritos (I was curious what huevos rancheros meant to the Münchener).

Next up was a City SightSeeing Tour with an hour-long tour of the hop-on hop-off variety. It was the easiest way to see the city and the top of the bus was nice and open. The tour was in 8 languages so most people would have access.

There are so many beautiful buildings in Munich that it would be impossible to put in all the pictures.  One of the most interesting buildings is the Maximilianeum, the seat of State Parliament (Bavarian Landtag).

This cafe looked like the place to be for some late afternoon sunning. I really wanted to hop off the bus and have a coffee but time did not permit. According to their website Tambosi is Munich’s oldest, continuously operated coffeehouse since 1810.

After the long day and a quick nap and change it was off to dinner at Cavos Taverna a beautiful Greek restaurant that turns into a party around 11pm. Decorated in white tables and chairs with pops of colors from the large photographs on the wall.

Image via placetobeguide.com

We started with a few appetizers of calamari, an artichoke and baked feta. The baked feta was the perfect level of salty and complimented by a drizzling of  balsamic and sesame seeds. I wanted the whole thing to myself. The artichoke was very fresh and fun to eat with a nice sweet aftertaste.

For the main course we ordered the Cavos plate – mixed grilled meat and the tuna steak with spinach and potatoes.  The tuna steak was succulent and the mixed grilled meat (chicken, beef and pork) was cooked well and nicely seasoned.

When debating dessert a plate of Greek yogurt with fresh fruits and honey was delivered to our table on the house. Truly an excellent way to end a meal.

Drink suggestion: MOVA – Cabernet Sauvignon / Agiorgitiko-Kokkalis

I was sad to be leaving Munich the next day but looking forward to the next city, Stuttgart.

Dispatch from Munich – Day 1

Getting off a red-eye is always nice but stepping into Munich Airport was even better. Well designed and surprisingly quiet. There were plenty of people there but there was not the noise level I associate with O’Hare. I loved it.

Rental car rented and off to get rid of the luggage I was excited to see Munich for the first time and hopefully discover some great food in the process. Everyone I spoke to about the city raved about it and declared it their favorite city in Germany. So I had high hopes for the two days I would be there.

First stop was Marienplatz to walk around and get some coffee. Stopped at an Italian cafe that served up great cappuccino. I was too jet lagged to remember to take a picture; you’ll just have to trust me on it.  The first thing I noticed about the squares around Munich is that everything looks perfect. Every building is beautiful, in order and no trash. It looked like a movie set to me.

After some sight-seeing and shopping came the first obvious drink/snack stop, Hofbräuhaus München.

It was early evening on a Monday so I avoided the packed weekend/college/tourist crowd. Murals cover the ceiling of the different rooms in the restaurant. With the outdoor seating there is easily a 500-person capacity. A band was playing and it got me in the mood to order a beer.

The Bretzel (pretzel) I got was nothing special but I guess you don’t come there for the food, do you? “In München steht ein Hofbräuhaus – oans, zwoa, g’suffa!” (In Munich there’s a Hofbräuhaus – one, two, down the hatch). Prost!

I was getting hungry so off to L’Osteria im Künstlerhaus, which was recommended by a neighbor. A stroll through Maximiliansplatz on the way proved Munich is just as beautiful at night.

The Künstlerhaus, also known as the Munich House of Artists, is an event venue that hosts weddings, banquets, conferences etc. founded in 1893. According to their website, “The idea of this house from the circle of artists Allotria society, in which both famous painters, sculptors, musicians and prominent representatives of the Munich society together.”

L’Osteria is one of two restaurants in the Künstlerhaus. The front dining room is dramatic and unexpected compared to the entrance of the restaurant which, is more modern and trendy. This restaurant is worth visiting if only for the architecture.

Image via exklusiv-muenchen.de

I went with a really basic order, Caprese and spaghetti and meatballs. The Caprese had really fresh buffalo mozzarella and the balsamic was sweet and rich. My dinner mates ordered the mussels but I am allergic so I could not partake. Judging from the 5 minute silence that ensued I believed them when they said they really liked the mussels. It looks like the thing here to order is the pizza. Pretty much every table had one and it looked and smelled delicious. Next time.

Day 1 complete I headed back to the hotel for some much-needed sleep. Day 2 coming soon. Guten nacht. Bis später.

Germany the New Spain?

Via Chicagobrauhaus.com

Well, according to Andre Knowlton of Bon Appetit it just may be. A couple of years ago BA named New Austrian as, “the cuisine of the year.” Since then Knowlton notes a trend toward Germanic fare, attributing it to the pork craze and craft beer.  I’m not a die-hard follower of food trends, I just like good food and a good atmosphere. But it’s hard to argue with the likability and prevalence of pork and beer. Especially in Chicago.

Not knowing that much about German food but welcoming a taste change from the Asian-Fusion/tapas/all-things Italian I decided to go to Lincoln Square and try the Chicago Brauhaus. This restaurant is an experience. You feel like you are walking into a German home from the 1970s and your uncle Gody and band, who has been there for almost 20 years, is leading an Oktoberfest sing-a-long with a dance floor that fills up as the night progresses.  Every once in a while, Guenter one of the owners, will come out and play the drums. The Brauhaus is also open for lunch if you don’t have your dancing shoes with you. There is a huge beer list as well as a full bar.

Okay for the food, here are some dishes that are both authentic and tasty:

-Geschmorte Schweine Haxen: Signature braised pork shank served with sauerkraut and spätzle or potato dumplings

-Leberknödel Suppe: Liver dumpling soup

-Rindsroulade: Beef rouladen, slowly braised thin sliced sirloin of beef rolled with mustard, bacon, onions, and pickle

-Heisse Würstl: Hot sausages, any on the menu

The Chicago Brauhaus is located at  4732 North Lincoln Avenue, Chicago, IL 60625.

A Night in East Germany

Via Wikipedia

Ingredients

1 bottle of Radeberger Pilsner (found at a European specialty store like, Genes, any pilsner can be substituted)

1/4 cup Bautzner mittelscharger Senf Medium Hot Mustard (found at a European specialty store like, Genes, any type of mustard can be substituted)

1/2 onion sliced

2 pork loin chops, cut 1-1/4 inches thick

salt & pepper to season

1 DVD of The Tunnel  -  Roland Suso Richter directed film loosely based on true events in Berlin following the closing of the East German border in August 1961.

1 East German boyfriend, for recipe contribution and history lesson (optional, any type of companion can be substituted)

Preparation

 Salt and pepper the chops to desired taste. In a shallow baking dish large enough to hold the pork chops in one layer combine the beer, mustard rubbed pork chops and the onions, turning the chops to coat them thoroughly. Let the chops marinate, covered for at least 30 minutes. The longer the marinade the tastier the chops will turn out.

Grill the pork chops on an oiled rack. While the chops are cooking grab your side dishes and drinks. Decide who gets to change the TV setting to video and queue up the movie. Have some extra Bautz’ner on hand, sit back and enjoy a taste of East Germany.